Perito Moreno Glacier

  Perito Moreno Glacier is in Patagonia, in Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina. It is one of the world’s few glaciers that is actually advancing rather than retreating. Perito Moreno has a surface area of more than 250 sq km and sits an average of 240 ft above the surface of Lake Argentino. Photographs are…

El Chaltén – Fitz Roy

  Mount Fitz Roy, aka Cerro Chaltén, is on the border of Argentina and Chile. It is one of the most technically challenging peaks in the world for mountaineers. Known as the “smoking mountain,” its peak is often obscured by clouds. We were fortunate to be there on a clear, although very cold, day.

Taxi Cabs and Rip-offs

After twelve days at a spiritual retreat in Abadiania, Brazil I was looking forward to getting home to Buenos Aires. I hooked up with an Australian couple from the retreat to share a taxi into el Centro. When asked about the taxi situation in BsAs I assured them that in all my time here I…

Bank Holiday

It was my fault. I waited until the last minute to exchange travelers cheques into Brazilian reais. I stopped first at the American Express office, only to find that it was a bank holiday. It wasn’t the anniversary of anyone’s birthday, death, nor independence. It was just a day to close the banks – because…

Day Trip to Colonia, UY

On the Calle de Suspiros is the tiny Galería de Suspiros which, like all the other buildings on this Portuguese-style cobble-stone ‘street of sighs’, used to be a brothel. The paint has faded since last year when I first was in Colonia but the interior, which I had never seen, comes alive with floor to…

Retail Inefficiency

I admit that I’m a bit obsessive/compulsive when it comes to efficiency. I don’t see any point in expending more time and energy than is required to get a job done. This appears to be a city, country, culture (not sure how far it goes) built on inefficiency. I’ve gotten used to what appear to…

El Día del Amigo*

In a city that worships friendship, connecting regularly is the norm among most porteños. In past years, fear of incarceration or death kept Argentines from gathering and there was little to celebrate while loved ones were disappearing. But, with increased political and economic stability, el Día del Amigo has become another excuse to exchange small…

El Zanjón* / San Telmo

It is surreal to me that I would be living on the primero piso of a conventillo on Calle Defensa where nuns once nursed those dying of cholera in the 1800s. This is one of 500 tenement houses in the San Telmo barrio. We are situated between the Edea Galeria (where last August I had…

Travel Advisory

When you mention that you’re travelling to South America you get looks of concern for your safety. Banditos, guerrillas and drug lords will no doubt have their eyes on you. La policia will stop you at blockades and threaten you for cash. You will be expected to bribe your way out of every confrontation. Keep…