El Zanjón* / San Telmo

It is surreal to me that I would be living on the primero piso of a conventillo on Calle Defensa where nuns once nursed those dying of cholera in the 1800s. This is one of 500 tenement houses in the San Telmo barrio. We are situated between the Edea Galeria (where last August I had…

Travel Advisory

When you mention that you’re travelling to South America you get looks of concern for your safety. Banditos, guerrillas and drug lords will no doubt have their eyes on you. La policia will stop you at blockades and threaten you for cash. You will be expected to bribe your way out of every confrontation. Keep…

Recoleta Cemetery

At 1800 hours the bell tolls and the gate to La Ciudad de los Muertos is closed. They lock up the dead. They put chains and padlocks on the door to each eternal home—to keep . . . someone . . . from getting out—or . . . someone . . . from getting in.…