Tango in New York City

Looking for a tango partner, read the Craigslist ad. I’d been in Buenos Aires a few months and was searching for the same. He was originally from New York, living in Argentina for … reasons he’d not want me to mention. We became good friends. “I don’t want to visit New York until you’re back…

*Are Cubans Happy?

Our first day in Varadero, Cuba, we were standing on the sidewalk outside an outdoor café listening to lively Latin rhythms. Seven musicians, squeezed into an alcove against the building, projected loudly into the patio and the sound spilled out into the street. A woman walked over from her hotel, beer in hand, on the…

Argentina’s Black Roots

You’ve seen her at a milonga: brassy, bottle-blonde hair. Between too much sun, too many cigarettes, and too much plastic surgery, it’s difficult to determine her age—maybe 50 leaning toward 70 trying to look 30. She’s wearing, shall we say … something “memorable” (although you can’t remember exactly what now) and it reveals her tucks…